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My Style and Wardrobe/Sewing Plan

Friday, May 14, 2010

My Style and Wardrobe Capsule Plan

 My Personalized Style for my Body Type

(Know your style before sewing a project)

During my bed rest, I consolidate my learning from Penn Foster (2008), U-DefineU (2007), Always In Style, Looking Good and "Sewing with a Plan" article. I will continue to add to My Style on other clothing items, jewelry and shoes later (like cashmere sweater, twinset, flats and kitten shoes). I felt that I need to have a plan since I like sewing garment and want a my wardrobe to be endless. I like to know what look good on me and/or compliment my body.  Single breasted suit (with button at bustline) is a must, no double breasted suit.

My colors: Rich colors (strong/deep), Jewel tones and Golden or Earth colors. 

                  Blues:  Periwinkle, Marine Navy, Royal, Navies, blue-black

                  Greens: Blue Green, emerald, Olive, Jade, Moss, Gray green, Tobacco, Teal is added by me because of State football team.

                  Yellow:  Buff, Chamois, Goldenrod yellow, gold, bright lemon yellow

                  Oranges: Deep Russett, Rust, Pumpkin, Peach, Coral, Apricot

                  Red:  Orange Red, Tomato, Brick, Rich Burgundy, Magenta, Fushsia, True Red

                  Violet: Purple, Aubergine, Plum

                  Neutrals:  Khaki, Beige, Camel, Tan, Chocolate Brown, Black, White (with texture), Gray, Taupe.

                  Wear colors to bring out Pinks and reds.

                  Cool, dark and dull colors reduce sizes, whereas warm, lighter and bright increase sizes.   

                  Single color outfit make you appear smaller.   I like darker for bottom garment and lighter for tops. :)

Skin tone: Autumn with Winter  Deep/Warm

Style: Tailored Classic (with a little high fashion trend)

Fabric: Dressy and semi: Silk or silk-like blouse weight wool, suiting, lightweight wool gabardine, wool crepe, georgette, wool, rayon challis, wool jersey, rayon blend gabardine, crepe, wool, silk jersey, linen suiting, satin, tweed, charmeuse, knit, double knit, interlocking knit, crepe de chine, drapable fabric, velvet/velour, chiffon or jersey. Casual: Denim, broadcloth, chino, knit, cotton, ultra suede, other synthetic suede (ultra suede), fine-wale corduroy or gabardine cotton.  Use shiny fabric for tops only.

Fabric Print: paisley, plaid, animal motif, realistic, natural scene, floral, watercolor, swirls, rounded and scroll.

Designer: Donna Karan m o, Halston, Emanuel Ungaro, Karl Lagerfeld a (when I want to go outside the box - a little bad), Oscar de la Renta, Gianni Versace o, Escada, Perry Ellis m o, Anne Klein II m o, St Tropez m, Adrienne Vittadini m, Calvin Klein m o, Geoffrey Bean Sport m, Bill Blass, Issey Miyake, Bob Mackie m o a (for art wear), Tahari m o, Michael Kors m a,  Christian Dior m, Norma Kamali m o, Yves St. Laurent, Willie Wear m o, and Yohji Yamamoto.     Overscale = o    Moderate price = m   Added by me = a

Couturier: Paco Peralta

Hat maker: Bonnie Shaffer

Accessories: Contour, curve, or oval earring, bags, buckles

Lines: Curve and straight mixed or curve.

Neckline - cowl, curve, bateau, round, scoop, draped, flounce, ruffled,

curved V, V or sweetheart.

Collar - curve, cowl, notched with round edges, rounded.

Lapels - rounded, shawl, bias, or curved sharp sloping.

Sleeve - set in, raglan, drop shoulder, dolman, slightly padded,

rounded shoulder pads.

Waist - slightly fitted, well defined

Pockets - rounded, set-in, flap, patch with rounded bottom, slash

Hemline - curved closing, rounded bottom

Lines detail: Combination Soft-Straight and Curve.  Diagonal lines, vertical lines and horizontal lines (horizontal at bust and hip (at waist to help define it). : )

Smooth, sleek curves on closings and lapels

Rounded hemlines

Soft tailoring details (unless I am using soft-straight detailing)

Jacket at waist, just above hip or at hip

Sewing With a Plan

Stage one - make 11 garments. These are: 2 pairs of pants; 2 skirts, one in a solid color, one in a print or check; 2 simple tops, one solid, one in the above print; 4 tops, in colors which coordinate with the solids; 1 simple cardigan jacket in a solid color.

Revised stage one listed below - 13 garments.

Paco - Black: loose Jacket, skirt (silk – ordered)

Paco - Navy: loose Jacket, skirt (silk - have)

Paco - Beige: Jacket, skirt with zipper in back with back slit, pant (something different - not order)

Paco - Black Dress crepe or tropical wool(taper from hip to knee) Supple and flexible fabric (not order)

Paco - Off white skirt with zipper in back with back slit (silk – ordered)

Have - White w/texture Pant and tailor jacket

Paco - Straight Pant: Navy, black (not order)

Have - One long sleeve top cotton white with spandex

            One long sleeve top print with many of the colors listed

            One 3/4 sleeve off white drapery and non shiny fabric

            2 Short sleeves: solid color and a print (rust, pink/burgundy, blue, black, white)

            4 Sleeveless top: solid (off white),(red),(black)and (very light gold or beige)

            2 Sleeveless top prints: gray animal print (sewn),fuchsia animal print with navy.    Silk, synthetic, texture or crepe (Shiny for night and knit and matte for day)

             Jeans SewSister FX (UFP - unfinished project)

             Test jacket fun with skirt and jeans (first after many, many, many, many years)

            Test Bustier (attending Kenneth King class on June 1, 2010). 

Stage two - make 10 garments. One cardigan - in one of your basic colors 3 long-sleeve tops in tones that coordinate 1 long skirt in a print 1 blouse or top in the same print 1 knee-length skirt in a solid color 2 more pairs of pants in tones that blend with your palette.

Revised stage two - 16 garments.

                 Jacket - denim

                 Burgundy Jacket

                 Rust Jacket

                 3 long sleeve top – pinstripe with white/ pink/blue/black, rust print and solid soft white - simple)

                 1 long skirt denim

                  2 knee length straight skirt with zipper in back with back slit burgundy and denim

                  3 pant: burgundy, rust, denim

                  4 dresses: black wool, denim, off white, printed

Stage three – make 11 garments.

Have - One tailored jacket - butter (wool)

             One loose jacket - camel

             One cowl neck top print - butter

            One short-sleeve top - animal print

            One straight skirt solid - butter

            One design by me (fit but full) skirt solid - butter

            One pair of pants – butter

            Gray Tailored jacket

            One  sleeveless top solid - butter/camel

             Bustier

Step four - 9 garment pieces:

Have - Emerald green dress

Have - silk green and off white pant suit

Have - Gray sleeveless dress

            Gray pull-on top

            Gray pant

            Gray Jacket

             Black cropped pant (I should be able to get away with it due to narrow shoulder)

             Navy cropped pants

             Jacket loose Emerald Green

             Skirt Emerald Green with print top to match emerald green dress (have dress)

            Black tropical wool jacket to match black dress

             Black tropical wool pant

             Bustier

Step five - 11 garment pieces:

            Teal jacket and

            Teal pull-on top and pants in knit fabric

            Denim cropped pants

            Jacket Red

            Skirt red

            Pant red

           Dress red

           Golden rod yellow printed dress

           Denim jean

           Bustier

Step six - 12 garment pieces:

              Purple jacket and

              Purple print pull-on top

              Purple pants

              Purple dress print

              Purple straight knee length skirt with zipper in back with back slit

              Rich pink jacket

              Long sleeve dress shirt

              2 – Summer dresses

              Denim jean

              Bustier Fancy

              Black wide leg pant in drapery fabric (The fuller the pant the drapery the fabric must be) - I must wear a long jacket with the pant

I used information from my attendant at Penn Foster Dressmaking Course (2008) and U-DefineU (2007). The Penn Foster lesson has a 4 page questionnaire to determine your style using measurements and shapes. Looking Good by Nancy Nix-Rice help you with planning your wardrobe capsule. Always In Style (the revised edition) by Doris Pooser works good with the 4 page questionnaire by Penn Foster.

Italics are information taken from SEWING WITH A PLAN or                                           web link: http://www.timmelfabrics.com/wardrobe.htm

I will be posting more information on style at a future time as part of "Bloomeneutics of Sewing".

I will probably sew along with a group or as always along.  Some items I will make and others I will have made/purchase.  Begin May 10, 2010 - No End

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I seen this overcoat which is unusual but delicious, I really like to have it but I am sure I can not afford it.